We were love struck the first time we had a sip of some young-ish Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru by Jean-Marie Fourrier many moons ago, and it was a time when his wines were expensive but not yet astronomical in prices. A quick check online showed that the last few recent releases of Griotte-Chambertin from the domaine now cost a whopping $1600~1900+ per bottle, if anyone actually has real stock on hand.
This particular bottle of 1999 has been kept for awhile now in our cellars and we decided to try one of them whose level has dropped a little during our last inspection. The cork was not in a very great shape and the wine colour showed early signs of premature aging with a slightly cloudy garnet core. But upon nosing it, all our concerns dissipated at once - it was beautifully floral with lots of sour cherries, incense, tangerine peel, and tart, red brambly fruits. Similar profile was found on the palate but punctuated with swashes of wild strawberries, light sweet spices, ripe cherries, coffee and a touch of chinese herbs in its finish. Darker, riper fruits emerged after some time, so did a little VA. Tannins were powerful and silky, but probably the softest we have encountered in numerous 1999 Grand Cru Burgundies thus far. Perhaps some of these 99 Burg babies are beginning to wake from their slumber?
Frankly, we are truly lucky to have sampled multiple of his wines across different vintages and appellations, but to do the same line-up and in repeated sessions these days isn't likely going to happen without moving mountains and $$$$. If you happen to chance upon JM Fourrier's domaine wines and its provenance is sound, you must buy them if they aren't too dear. After all, how often does one come across wines that are truly ethereal?